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How I raised fry of corridors

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Aquarists know how important it is to provide juveniles with nutritious nutrition. We are talking about natural feed - rotifers, daphnia, cyclops (preferably the first two species) from natural reservoirs. At the same time, it is important that they be of “good” breeds. When breeding aquarium fish, only such a result can be considered successful when at least 90–95% of healthy fry are obtained from caviar. Do not try to get a high yield of offspring, and subsequently good producers with the use of “home” feed (ciliates, slippers, rotifers of home culture, micro-feed, enhitrei), with no diligence this fails. A lawyer from Kaliningrad will help you file a declaration of conformity. Do not bother yourself with unnecessary information - be more effective. They should be used only if in winter you breed some rare new fish and you are not sure that you will be able to get offspring from it again in the spring. The best food for growing fry of fish can be considered larvae of Artemia salina, which can be obtained at home. And this food is, essentially, from natural reservoirs. The best time to catch food organisms in vivo is from May to October. This time (six months) should be considered the season of breeding aquarium fish. You need to go for food daily, in extreme cases every other day. Usually, amateurs consider it, and it seems quite fair, that the food caught in the pond and delivered home is suitable as long as the crustaceans are alive. Therefore, all measures are taken in order to keep them alive longer. But it seems that the opinion is wrong. If the fry are given the food they caught yesterday, then they will not eat it. And if then they are given fresh food freshly caught in the same reservoir, they will immediately start eating it, and after 20-30 minutes their abdomens will be full. Yesterday the juvenile does not want to eat food and chooses only fresh, which, apparently, has the best taste and nutritional qualities. Fry and young fish should be fed only with fresh natural food, catching it whenever possible.

How I raised fry of corridors

Message Mirror October 16, 2010 1:26 AM

How I raised fry of corridors

Message Mirror October 16, 2010 5:23 p.m.

I'd like to raise them again. What should I do to prevent fry from leaving?

Added later 6 minutes 42 seconds:
I am at a loss, very sorry for the fry.

How I raised fry of corridors

Message Nikolaykz October 16, 2010 6:03 pm

How I raised fry of corridors

Message Mirror October 16, 2010 6:36 PM

quote = "Nikolaykz" The fry died due to dry food. Water from the same aquarium into the incubator. Level 6-7 cm. Well, etc. How to float the level gradually raise. Install an airlift. Feed live artemia. Give literally in volume at the tip of the knife. Feed as you eat. Clean enough once a day. No artificial feed. Weak light around the clock.

Almost all of these recommendations were followed! The only thing is dry food.
On many aquarium resources, it is written that corridoras are easy to raise on dry feed. It is even advised to feed with spirulina tablets. they say, and so they will eat, having stuck a pill on all sides.

Baby Care

The appeared fry are very small and translucent; they can hardly be distinguished. In the first few days, they do not swim, being in one place and eating the remains of their yolk sac. The main tasks of the aquarist are: to provide juveniles with food and maintain high water quality.

What to feed?

As soon as they begin to swim, you can start serving microscopic feed. The ciliates are excellent food, but they are difficult to breed. An alternative to live food will be special powdered products or suspensions for fry of spawning fish, which can be purchased at the pet store or online.

Feeding Danio fry

Around the age of 7–10 days, you can try serving new foods. Artemia nauplii or dry food of a suitable size, such as crushed cereals or granules, are a good choice. Feed once a day, but continue to feed with microscopic food. As soon as there is confidence that larger food is eaten, it should become the basis of the diet.

Cleaning a spawning aquarium

From the moment the fry hatch, the aquarium can already be equipped with a simple lighting system. The feeding process is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of waste. The fry are not able to eat all the food, and it will inevitably begin to deteriorate and pollute the water. Placing a low-power filter or an air airlift filter will help maintain biological balance in a spawning aquarium. A useful addition would be freshwater snails. They will eat leftover food, not fertilized eggs, dead fry (such will also be).

Relocation of fry to a common aquarium

There is no exact time frame. Young fish can be found together with adult fish from the moment they reach 1 cm in length and even a little earlier (5–7 weeks of life). At this age, there is no longer any threat that they will be eaten. However, small fish are likely to lose competition for food, so the moment of resettlement in a common aquarium should be postponed until they reach the age of 70–75 days, by this time the fry will grow to or more centimeters.

Information in the "Fish" section regarding scientific names and living conditions
complies with FishBase materials - a global catalog of fish species,
coordinated by the Leibniz Institute of Marine Sciences.

Stimulating fry exit from eggs.

The question itself is how this is done for non-seasonal species. In my case, Fundulop. gardneri gardneri. Caviar has been in the water for about a month (15 pieces), last week 5 fry came out. What to do to get the rest out?

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If the formed fry is visible in the remaining caviar, then try to spill the caviar with softer and fresher water. Hatching fry away, “drain” the old water or pour off most of it. Pour caviar with soft water (distillation, melt, etc.)
Also at Fp. It is convenient to incubate gardneri eggs in wet peat for 3-4 weeks, followed by pouring, the whole comes out all at once.

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There is an old grandfather way. Caviar is collected in a small jar of fill, as it is written above, a small count of fresh water and put in your pocket. So go around the house and do your own thing. From the fact that she will hang out, they will fall out.

It helps especially in cases when the fry comes out partially. The tail fell out and he does not manage to free himself from the shell.

The one who does not work is not mistaken

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If the fry are formed, you can add a little some rotten water. Malek leaves within an hour or two. After the fry are released, transfer to clean water

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You guys are telling such terrible things. Here with whom - with whom, and with Gardneri (even when he was called Kaliurum:?) There have never been problems: he stands elementarily on the window, in the spring, when the sun warms up, the fry appear in terrible quantities. I do not see caviar, because it is overgrown in aqua, but when 30 pieces come up like that, it becomes noticeable. I usually keep one pair.
Hence the conclusion: temperature changes (day-night, winter-summer), light, lots of vegetation (so that children can play hide and seek). And all will be well. You can, of course, dispute, but this is my personal strong opinion.

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You put everything together again. There is a problem and there is a real way out of it.
Cyril, do as Sergei Nikolaevich says and everything will be fine. I agree with them, I’ve been divorcing the Gardners for more than 10 years. Give it a try.

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Yes pa-chi-mu in a bunch. No, Christmas trees! With a jar in your pocket around the apartment rushing funnier! Still stumble and somersault!
"From the fact that she will hang out and fall out" - it generally finished me off. I'm so vulgar after the holidays.
I do not argue, everyone has their own methods. But "about a month" is not a tragedy, the conditions are inappropriate, nothing more. The fish itself is not complicated. "Patience, my friend, and your stubble will turn into gold" (Scout's Feat, C)

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you can add some rotten water

The day before yesterday I filled it with a 2-day osmolyatik - today 3 fry came out.

But "about a month" is not a tragedy, the conditions are inappropriate, nothing more.

I can’t keep a spawning group in a separate aqua all the time, especially on the windowsill (they are already occupied) - I am tormented to prepare water.

Thanks for the tips. I will try.

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"Rotten" water means water rich in bacteria and rotifers, the egg shell dissolves in such water, mix such water with a distillar, and the rest will be done by NATURE MOTHER.

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Why did the others come out?

Well, firstly, almost a month - is it three weeks? So the deadline is not critical. A couple of weeks you can not really worry.
Secondly, as it was already said somewhere recently, hatching the fry is uneven. So the process does not cause alarm yet.
And turn on the logic: what is essentially a pocket option? - temperature increase (whatever one may say, but there are about 28 degrees) and the saturation of water with air due to chatter. Those. the same as in the version with aqua on the window in the presence of sun and plants.
So in vain Alexander hit me with so many exclamation points!

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If there is a delay in hatching, I just turn on the thermostat in one of the water tanks about 4-5 degrees above room temperature (especially not above 30 ° C). I put a jar in it there, almost 100% yield in the morning.

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I report:
7.01 - in the evening I replaced the water that was in the container with tar.
8.01 - in the morning I found 5 fry. In the evening, on the advice of Igor, place the container in a greenhouse, where he began to raise the temperature to 27-28. The room was 23.
9.01 - in the morning +7. I didn’t change anything until the evening - +1. At about eight o'clock in the evening he put caviar in a jar of osmolyat and in his pocket, as Sergei did. By eleven o'clock +10. At night again in a greenhouse with the same temperature.
10.01 - no one in the morning. He carried a jar of sutra in his pocket - in the evening +2. At night again in the greenhouse (temperature 25-26).
11.01 - in the morning +2. Hurrah. Everyone is out.

Many thanks to all for the advice.

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Hurrah! With the addition!

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And now everything is like people’s - the most difficult thing begins - feeding and raising babies

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And now everything is like people’s - the most difficult thing begins - feeding and raising babies

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Cyril, just like that, for your own interest, try incubating caviar in wet peat. To me personally, it is more acceptable because saves time and cans for fish. Gardners spawn both on plants (I use Thai fern in spawning) and tof. Caviar easily removes from the fern with fingers and does not crush. Just like seasonal peas, I dry the peat on a newspaper. After 3-4 weeks, sprinkle caviar. The output of the fry is uniform.

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And now everything is like people’s - the most difficult thing begins - feeding and raising babies

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I think that there’s a big meaning in the talk - it’s not a window - maybe there is a frequent difference i.e. "fluctuations" of pressure on the inner and outer surface of the egg shell. Imagine what happens to the bottom of a dried pond during a shower.
And there are no problems with feeding.
My killi has problems in the size of a couple of centimeters.

Wives change, Friends stay.

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Andrei writes and tell me how can I be af southern caviar I put it regularly I put it in soft water and it whitens you can put it in peat right away fry a little it turns out all the time the species balances on the verge of extinction and the coloration becomes worse it degenerates slowly the content has not changed before everything was normal. help advice &.

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Caviar should not be transferred to optimal water, but spawning should be done immediately in optimal water.

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Andrei, doesn't bother with punctuation, is she right !?
If I understood correctly, the text:


Andrei writes: but tell me, please, what should I do with af. southern?
Caviar whitens, I regularly collect it and put it in soft water.
If you put it in peat right away, then the fry is not enough.
The species is constantly balancing on the verge of extinction, although the conditions of detention have not changed, and before everything was normal. The color has become worse, the view is degenerating slowly. Help advice, please!

I join Sergey’s opinion that the described problem is not in keeping caviar, but in its fertilization. In hard water, this (and many others) type of fertilization problems. In general, the recommended water parameters are: pH 6.0 - 7.0, dH 5 - 12, 21 - 24 ° C. However, for
Breeding lovers recommend pH up to 6, dH up to 10.

We have a view for a long time and it is possible that it degenerates, but this does not prevent it from breeding somehow. (Someone bred stably, not me)

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Very often the problem is not in the water, but in the state of the producers. In my opinion, the most optimum Ph 6-6.5 gH is up to 8. Maybe a really BLANKED line !?

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Andrei writes that I bred this species for 3 years; everything was normal; I mix water with a distillate of 50x50; earlier everything was fine; the fry tried a lot to plant the producers but the result is the same if I try to measure the parameters of the water very hard and try to measure it as it may, it will give the result. maybe it's all about water in PH.

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In the journal Aquarium №2 2008 E. Saakov’s article was posted in which he said that he had achieved good stimulation of the fry’s exit with the help of a pipe-maker - just by throwing a little caviar into the container. I did not believe it. But in July it was urgent to stimulate the exit, and the caviar of southerners and striatums lay already the 4th week. The jar in the pocket did not give any result. I tried with a pipe maker - it worked.

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Congratulations. How long did you go with a jar?

The one who does not work is not mistaken

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I want to share my experience in stimulating hatching. Southern afiosemions, 15 eggs, on the 12th day - 7 larvae, the rest lay for another 2 days, did not want to hatch. A jar of caviar was allowed to swim overnight in a pot of warm water (30 g), the result was zero. He put the jar in his pocket and walked with it for half a day, the result - three hatched, 5 left. Then he introduced a little dry food and talked. Literally after 20 minutes I looked into the bank - all five came out! The water has not even begun to smell.

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The normal hatching of the afiosemions is not a larva, but a full-fledged floating fry :-) A larva with a yolk bladder is a premature hatching.

Raise the fry cichlids.

Message Dubrofskij March 24, 2014 12:49 PM

An understandable article on the propagation of cichlids from the Internet portal. Log in or register to view the link.


Incubation of eggs and rearing of cichlids
Remembering yourself ...

. Sooner or later, in the life of every novice aquarist, after an inevitable series of mistakes and failures, the day comes when his can is transformed as if by magic. Nasty planaria disappear from the glass of the aquarium, plants that were once either densely covered with a brown layer of diatoms or decorated with shaggy black tassels around the perimeter of the leaves suddenly start to delight the eye with bright greenery and are rapidly moving into growth, the abbreviations such as "EPRA" and "MG" no longer drive a novice into a stupor of misunderstanding, and the "cornerstone" of aquarium science - the nitrogen cycle and all its phases - is memorized no worse than the multiplication table. And at the end of all these transformations - oh, a miracle! - for some reason, the fish cease to hurt and die at once, although yesterday it seemed that there would be no end to it ...
What happened?
And just balance. And not only biological, in the aquarium. A balance has come between the small underwater world and its creator.
And now the aquarist enters a new "era": fixing his inquisitive eyes on the lovingly nestled hydrobionts, he tries to determine their gender, calling for help of Partigenigenos from the forums and "soaring" them ineptly made microscopic muddy pictures, forgetting about food and sleep, day and he gazes nightly at the fish, trying to notice from them even the slightest attempts to spawn.
But as long as the jar is in order and the fish is healthy, this longed-for moment will not take long to wait - and now the couple, having experienced the beautiful time of mating games, cleans the substrate, preparing to lay eggs.

Here is one of the rare species of severum: Red-headed Heros sp. "Rotkeil Peru" (also known as Heros sp. "Redhead", Heros sp. "Red Shoulder"). Heros live mainly in the rivers Rio Negru, Orinoco, Tapajos. Biotopes - both black water, and white (less often). Black water is the main biotope, the temperature in some areas in shallow water sometimes reaches 33-34 ° C, heavily swamped backwaters with a thick layer of fallen leaves. Ripen at the age of one and a half to two years. Double spawning, lithophiles. Create couples for life. 80-90% vegetarians. like, however, almost all fish in nature. Trying to breed such fish is an exciting and exciting venture!
As you know, the flight of fancy cannot be stopped, and a crazy thought creeps into the head of the "young naturalist" more and more often: it would be great to grow fry - from YOUR fish and MOST! And in the aquarium, as usual, “compote” (who said that neons and bag-toads are incompatible.), And to hope that the fish-parents will preserve and raise their children themselves would be, at least, just ridiculous.
Actually, this material was written to help such novice fans (in a good sense, of course). I will make a reservation right away: the method described below is suitable only for fish laying eggs on a substrate. Such lithophilous fish include the vast majority of American cichlids (both large and dwarf species, with the exception of certain species of geophagus) and some African cichlids (for example, handsome chromis).

So, it was decided - we raise the fry ourselves!
For the success of our (not at all hopeless) enterprise, we need a small sedimentator (for the first time, a volume of 10-15 liters is quite enough), specially equipped. He will serve as the incubator, and then the "hospital". It should contain:
1) a heater providing a constant temperature of 27-28 ° C,
2) a device replacing the "wings" - pectoral fins of fish-parents. Continuously fanning them with masonry, parents do not allow the water to stagnate, thereby ensuring the flow of oxygen to the caviar and protecting it from fungus (mold),
3) a tool that prevents the development of pathogenic bacteria (the best and repeatedly tested by more than one generation of breeders option is methylene blue).
Neither soil nor plants are required in the incubator - this is a hygienic container, all internal surfaces in it should be easily accessible for cleaning.
Near the incubator (or directly above it) you need to place a light source that is not too bright, but sufficient to provide the larvae (and then the fry) with a change of "day" and "night".
The photo below shows a variant of such an incubator. It has a tiny weak filter that has 2 exits - one is directed in such a way that the stream from it passes exactly above the caviar, and the second is worn with a thin silicone tube that comes out of the water to the surface - a trickle from it, thus, “falls” from a small height into the water, while saturating it with oxygen and mixing the surface layer.

Malam 2 weeks. In good conditions, these are nimble fish busy collecting food
And again: remember that overfeeding is always fatal for fish, and even more so for fry with their delicate digestive tract! Very often it is overeating that causes the death of small fish.
If you decide to feed babies with live brine shrimp, collect it carefully, trying to prevent shells from eggs from entering the feed portion - they clog the intestines of the fish, which also leads to disastrous results. The collected nauplii should be thoroughly washed with salt in a dense net under running water.

Here, perhaps, are all the basic "wisdom and tricks" of raising the fry. If you comply with them, you will certainly succeed.
Good luck

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